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Carpenter Ants in Your Space

by admin on January 17, 2012

in The Ant Series

Carpenter Ants of the Oregon Coast

Most of the Carpenter Ant activity on the Oregon Coast are due to two different species, Camponotus modoc and C. vicinus.  The modoc carpenter ant is the very large ant that most coastal residents are familiar with.  I call it the “economy sized ant”.  Not as familiar to most people is the vicinus carpenter ant which is normally smaller with a red or burgundy colored mid-section or thorax.  Both of these ants cause structural damage.

Carpenter Ants Don’t Eat Wood for Dinner

Unlike a termite, who eats the wood for nutrients, the carpenter ant chews through the wood to nest, storing the “frass” or sawdust, in one of the empty chambers excavated prior.   Ants do not generally kick out sawdust or frass where it is visible to you and I, until they decide to use that empty gallery or chamber to nest…then you start seeing tell-tale signs of frass.  Although they do not eat the wood, they cause every bit as much damage to a structure as a termite.  Often these ants begin their initial nest in decayed wood, but easily move on to sound wood causing considerable damage and instability in a structure.  <!--more-->

How Does a Carpenter Ant Choose My House To Nest

Most often the parent nest will be in a tree, stump, stacked wood, buried wood or stumps or decorative landscape timbers (think railroad ties).  Carpenter ants will allow a nest to get just so large before they create a satellite colony up to 320 feet away from the original nest.  A typical nest will have 10 to 20,000 workers, but larger colonies can have up to 100,000 workers.  Contact or communication and travel between the colonies is normally maintained.   A satellite colony will contain larvae, pupae and winged reproductives.  Your house is simply in the right place for them, at the right time!

Carpenter Ants on the Move

When carpenter ants trail or travel between the parent and satellite colonies, they establish these trails along natural contours and lines of least resistance, like a area of edging between the lawn and flower bed.  The trails are about 3/4 inch wide and ants keep these trails clear of vegetation or debris.  While there may be activity during the day, often the majority of the movement comes after sunset and decreases before sunrise.  Carpenter ants will also have a regular network of trails along the tops of water pipes, electrical lines, through holes in the siding, along floor joists, wall studs and crawl spaces.  Many times, homeowners are not aware that they even have a carpenter ant problem because this activity is not real visible to the untrained eye.  The other notable time of movement with carpenter ants is when the winged reproductives emerge from the nest during the first warmer days of spring, anywhere between January and June.  A pest management firm cannot answer phones quickly enough during these swarms…..these ants, rightfully so, cause panic when folks start seeing the swarm near their house.  Because we live in such wonderful forested areas….carpenter ants swarms will always be prevalent.

Notable Carpenter Ant Stories

The most amazing story of carpenter ant ingenuity comes from Florence.  A large, well kept home on one of Florence’s many lakes, had a mystery of “sounds in the ceiling”, like snapping and popping sounds when everything was real quiet.  Shhhh.   Upon the technician’s arrival, inspection proceeded around the house with no evidence of any problem but general insects.  Into the house with a stethoscope to listen to the walls, then further to the ceiling….WOW, lots of noise!  Upon checking the attic a very LARGE carpenter ant nest was found under the insulation and extending down a wall.  The mystery?  How did they get there?  Upon another inspection of the exterior it was found that a highwire, from across the road….over near the trees at the lake, carpenter ants were coming from there, across the wires and into the structure at the roof where the electrical and cable lines came into the house.  Wow….there is a reason ants are mentioned in the Bible as being industrious!

Another notable story was about a family I knew quite well, living up in the Lebanon area…..sitting on the deck during a warm summer day, iced tea, enjoying the kids….when behind them the noises of popping, cracking, groaning began.  The family watched as a portion of the siding and house just began falling off…literally.  There was not enough wood for nails to hold onto anymore….the ant nest was huge!  Now, they had been noticing ants for YEARS….but chose not to do anything.  Their opinion was….everyone has ants don’t they?  Oh MY!  Ignorance can be bliss…..until your house falls apart!  And no, I have never heard of this happening to anyone else in my 20 plus years of pest management!  Be vigilant and if you don’t want to be, then hire a pest professional to inspect routinely!

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Moisture Ants Cause Damage Too

by admin on January 17, 2012

in The Ant Series

Moisture Ants ARE Wood Destroying

There is a significant difference between Oregon and Washington State in what they recognize as wood destroying. The State of Oregon does not recognize moisture ants as being a wood destroying organism while Washington does.  Why does this matter?  Because when you go to buy or sell real property, an inspection is performed, not only to determine wood decay (which is a wood destroying organism), but wood destroying insects too.  The bank wants assurance that the house is not going to be eaten or damaged by insects.  Oregon does not require reporting on moisture ants as wood destroying insects and rightfully, they should be!  The argument is over the fact that decaying wood must be present in order for them to infest.  Decaying wood comes before infestation, still they are in the structure at that point and should be addressed as a structural problem.

Moisture ants are considered to be a medium sized ant and can be known as a yellow ant, although most around here are darker.  These ants are normally nesting in wood that is in the last stages of decay, but they will infest into other areas structurally as well.  They can actually speed the deterioration of wood.  They will often be found nesting in damp soil outside or under the house, beneath sidewalks, along foundations, or under debris and rocks in the yard…..and of course, living in damp, decaying wood.  The remedial action to be taken with moisture ants is to remove the decaying and damp wood, which one should do anyway to eliminate the possibility of other infestations as well.  Take action to correct moisture conditions as soon as possible and this should eliminate a moisture ant problem.  Keep watch for leaking gutters, plumbing leaks, improperly caulked windows and siding seams, anywhere moisture intrusion can be a problem, seal it up!

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Sugar Ants, How They Travel, What They Eat, Nesting Near You!

by admin on January 17, 2012

in The Ant Series

 

What They Eat

Odorous House Ants (aka Sugar Ants or Small Ants)  forage both night and day for many types of food, making the name sugar ant, a misnomer. They eat live and dead insects, honeydew produced by aphids and mealy bugs as well as sweet foods. They also forage for moisture during the dryer seasons. Odorous House Ants have a distinctive, unpleasant odor when crushed, kind of like rotten coconuts.  Make no mistake though, there are also other ants that smell when crushed too!  If a home has enough colonies their scent can be detected upon entering the structure.

How and Why They Travel

Workers move very fast and often travel in columns. Swarming flights can occur June to Mid-July.  New colonies may form by budding, when a new queen or queens, leave the parent colony with workers. When threatened, move erratically with abdomens tipped while releasing an alarm pheromone, this draws more workers to them.  Attacking these ants with the wrong materials will intensify the problem as defense colonies will produce additional queens in other places in the structure.  When these ants are moving, they are generally looking either for new nesting sites or more likely, foraging for food.  One soldier or worker is sent out, leave a scent behind as they go for others to follow.  When food is found and the ants begin using that trail consistently, it’s because they are following a scent trail that has been left behind.  Unfortunately, an uninformed homeowner create their own biggest problem, by spraying this trail.  By spraying pesticide, bleach or anything else, the ants detect that their scent trail has been interrupted and they seem to disappear, only to show up someplace else a few days later.  If this is repeated enough times, then the ant infestation is effectively spread throughout many locations in the structure.  They are instinctual enough to quit using an interrupted trail and create another, and another, and another.

How Big is That Nest

This species has a multi-queen colony, which means that each colony can be made of other colonies with individual queens for each. Each colony can have between 100 to 10, 000 ants.  Ant nests are found in a great variety of situations. Ants will travel between food sources or on the exterior of a structure as well as going back and forth from exterior to interior. Inside the home, ant nests can often be found inside walls of homes, around hot water pipes, heaters, behind paneling, under carpets, beneath the floor and even in the attic! Outside nests can be found just beneath the soil surface, in mulch, debris, logs, stumps, under stones, under plastic and under or in vegetation. These ants allow their colonies to get just so big before they create another nest site elsewhere. This is why so much activity is notable in the spring!

Most Effective Treatment is Left to Professionals

This is one pest problem that you really do need to contact a professional pest management person.  The products used in treatment of these ants are a non-repellent material, therefore the ants cannot detect a different scent.  Then, as they forage back and forth to the nest, one ant can affect three to four other ants in the nest.  While this isn’t a quick fix method, it is an effective form of treatment, eliminating the nest in two to four weeks time.  Sometimes, if you have only a minor problem, using Terro from the local grocery store can be enough.  If you are seeing a lot of ants though, you are better off to catch the problem sooner, rather than later.  Rarely can a full infestation be eliminated without help.

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Cockroaches On The Coast

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Other Crawlies

The good news first, cockroaches are NOT indigenous to the Oregon Coast!  Simply put, it is too cool on the Oregon Coast for cockroaches to be able to thrive outside.  The only time roaches are found outside, in our coastal region, is when an infested piece of furniture or other infested items are placed outside during the summer months.   Even the, they will not be long lived unless they find harborage inside.  Cockroaches must be moved in, literally!  The truth is, roaches are opportunists!

Rentals Are Most At Risk

Most of the roach problems we hear about are in rentals.  Why?  Because most tenants are very embarrassed when it comes to this and their landlord is the LAST person they want to tell. Unfortunately, if the problem doesn’t come to light and get taken care of, then the problem moves with them to their next home AND leaves a problem behind for the next person too!  From there the cycle continues on and on.

The German Cockroach

The most common roach we see here is the German Cockroach.  These roaches are about 3/4 inches long, pale yellow brown to medium brown in color with two dark longitudinal streaks on the thorax.  Both males and females are fully winged, however they use their wings to glide from a higher location to a lower location unnoticed.  The German Roach is very successful as they are small enough to be moved throughout the world. 

Roaches Hide

Roaches prefer warm, moist habitats and are most often found in the kitchen and sometimes bathrooms.  In the kitchen, they will seek harborage in appliances like refrigerator motors, behind the dishwasher, and underneath coffee pots and toasters.  They will also be found in cupboards, cracks and crevices.  Roaches will contaminate and destroy stored food products.  We have even seen roaches infest VCRs, TVs, Stereos and computers!  Roaches will scavenge and consume a wide variety of foods, including papers, cloth, decaying plants and other critters.  It is true cleanliness DOES matter to a degree when trying to control an infestation, the less food source available the better roaches will utilize baits.

Cockroaches Cause Health Problems

German cockroach nymphs emit collective pheromones through their feces.  This increases aggregation within their populations.  As their population grows, the smell of pheromones can be very noticeable.  The musty smell is a sign of a large infestation.  The musty smell is also indication of a second problem, a health problem!   Cockroaches are one insect that has the distinction of CAUSING asthma, especially in children.  Roaches can also greatly aggravate a current asthma condition.  The dust created by cast-off roach skins, dead bodies and droppings can also aggravate allergies, especially in children and sensitive populations like the elderly or people whose health is already compromised.  This pest IS considered a public health problem!  The good news is, roaches are not as hard to get rid of as they used to be.  Newer generations of products available allow for better control and quicker elimination.

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Flea Season Has Arrived…Or It Never Left

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Other Crawlies

Fleas All Around Us

If you live on the Oregon Coast then you know that fleas live all around us.  Even if you never have pets, fleas can be a problem for you and your house!   Did you know that you can actually pick up fleas on your socks and bring them into your house to begin a flea infestation?  Most of the time fleas are a common problem of dogs and cats and responsible pet owners keep their animals groomed and treated for fleas.  Preventative treatment on the pet is the best way to control fleas and eliminate infestations.  Even just walking your pet through your neighborhood can create a flea infestation.  Does that mean your neighbors have fleas?  No, not necessarily as wildlife populations from rats to deer carry fleas throughout the neighborhood.  Even though we live on the Oregon Coast, these fleas still are not  sand fleas, or dog fleas….they are all considered cat fleas.

The Flea Life Cycle

The flea undergoes a complex life cycle and in our mild climate fleas can complete that cycle year-round especially inside!  The adult female flea lays 2-14 eggs after each blood meal and can lay 800 eggs during her lifetime!  The adult flea spends 90+% of its time on a pet.   Adult fleas are small, wingless that can jump up to 8 inches vertically and 16 inches horizontally.  Fleas are covered with stout, backwardly directed spines, which allow fleas to move forward through the hair or feathers of the host and resist being pulled out during grooming.

Adult fleas lay eggs on the tips of the pet’s hairs.  As the pet rests or moves through the house, these microscopic eggs drop onto the floor or furniture where they continue to develop.  The greatest concentration of eggs will be found where the pet spends the most time.  Eggs hatch into larvae in 2-14 days and are fully developed in 8-24 days.  Flea larvae live in floor cracks, rugs, carpets, animal bedding as well as moist dark environments in the yard and feed on a wide variety of organic debris like particles of pet food and pet feces! Is it important to pick up the poop in the yard?  YES!!!

The pupal state is 5-7 days but may last for up to a year if it conditions are unfavorable.  The adult flea can remain in the cocoon for up to five months waiting for a host and finds one by sensing body heat, odor, air movement or vibration of floors and surroundings.  This behavior is one reason flea infestations are often discovered by people returning home after vacation or moving into a new home or apartment.    This means that one tenant can move insisting that there is not flea problem in the home (and they seriously never knew that there was one)  and the next tenant can move in a week or two later and have a full-blown infestation and get eaten alive! 

Treatment Is Complicated

Speaking of treatment, now is a good time to discuss what works and what doesn’t!   Flea control is a complicated problem because there are multiple stages in the flea life cycle with stages found both on and off the pet as well as indoors and outdoors.  With this in mind, flea control strategies must include targeting all these factors at the same time or it will  lead to re-infestation every time!   Because pets are the primary sources of infestation the pet must be treated at the same time as  the house (including carpets, rugs, upholstered furniture, pet bedding washed or treated) and at the same time the outside yard areas require treatment.  If a  pet spends time in the garage then that needs treated at the same time as well.  Use of over the counter foggers will not be effective against infestation as they still allow some of the life cycle to survive and any growth cycle not eliminated will eventually lead to another infestation.   A treatment by a pest professional is  most effective because the products used target all stages of the life cycle!   If a pet will continue to be part of the equation then we recommend that the pet be treated with a flea shampoo then an effective monthly type treatment.

Pesticide Resistance Is a Reality

Depending on the year,  many products can be rendered ineffective as a resistance is built requiring a change in products.  Most pest control companies will know what works in a given year and what is not working!  In the past couple of years, products that have worked in the past are not working well at all.  Makers of flea control products are aware that we are having a problem on the Oregon Coast.  You will find that the spot on pet products are lasting perhaps 10 to 14 days at best, if they work at all.  Make sure to talk to your veterinarian about new advances in flea control, it is important that you do so.  Pest professionals also SHOULD instruct on how to prepare for treatment and what responsibility one  has before, during and after treatment.  We have an excellent flyer on our website under the members only part of our site.  One day, none of these products will work and we will find it necessary to use mechanical means to deal with fleas…..like diatomaceous earth that cuts the cuticle of the insect and dries them out.  While this is very effective, powdering your pets daily is not so fun!  The diatomaceous powder that can be used on skin is very light and falls off quickly.  Other forms of this product should not be used on animals.  If you choose to use this method, use a face mask and don’t breath the product…it can cause tiny cuts inside lungs.

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YES, Bed Bugs Are Back

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Bed Bug Boogie

Not Just A Cliché

After World War II, bed bugs were nothing more than a cliché  spoken at bedtime, “Goodnight, don’t let the bed bugs bite!”  It is my suspicion that many today would not even know where the saying originated, had it not been for a recent widespread resurgence in populations.  On the Oregon Coast we think we are insulated from all the horror stories found in cities like Seattle, Portland, Chicago, Los Angeles…but the simple fact is, we aren’t less likely to have bed bugs at all!  It’s just a matter of time before they are more prominent here.  Since the spread of bed bugs west, tourism has also been down on the Oregon Coast, likely contributing to less of a problem at this time.  We are fortunate right now, but, there have been and are bed bugs in every community on the Oregon Coast and not just in motels or due to people moving here.  As the economy allows for more travel, there will be more evidence of spread to the coast.  For now, enjoy the fact that you can still put your purse down in the local library!

Why Are They Spreading So Fast

In our very mobile society, air travel can take us most anywhere in a day, regardless of what country you visit, bed bugs are likely already there.  All it takes is one night in a bed bug infested environment and you have a very likely chance of taking a bed bug with you to your next location.  Bed bugs are spreading in our country through used, second-hand furniture, rental furniture, reconditioned mattresses, infested delivery vehicles, infested dwellings, storage units, dorm rooms, or just packing a purse or suitcase from place to place.  One person, just one…can spread a bed bug infestation to many places and not even know it…until it’s too late!  One of the difficulties is that there is still whole industries that don’t want to admit a problem even exists.  Many other people cannot imagine that any place they might have been would have had bed bugs.  It really can be as simple as setting your purse down in the a local library or coffee house!  Bed bugs can be found in ANY hotel and this includes economy motels as well as 5 star resorts.    Bed bugs are the GREAT OPPORTUNISTS!

But I Don’t See Them Walking Across the Floor

You likely will NEVER see them in broad daylight walking across a floor.  Bed bugs introduced to a structure can go undetected for many months sometimes as they establish their nocturnal lifestyle and not until the infestation becomes pretty entrenched is a live bug found.  Then they will be found in the bed frame, headboard, wall socket, cracks in a wall or wall paper, furniture, carpet tack strips, or the head of a screw in the nightstand next to the bed!  Bed bugs that haven’t had a blood meal will be very flat and prefer to fit into tight cracks and crevices, the nymphs are very small, often translucent and cannot be seen unless you know exactly what you are looking for.

We Live To Suck Your Blood

Bed bugs usually choose to hide near the bed and seek out their blood meal somewhere between 2 and 4 am, when you are in the deepest sleep.  During the night, the bed bug leaves it’s hiding place attracted to the carbon dioxide and heat you give off when you sleep.  When they begin to feed they will inject an anti-coagulant (to keep the blood flowing) and an anesthetic (to keep the human from feeling the bite and waking up).  The bed bug will feed for 3-5 minutes then retreat to it’s hiding place again.

Suspect Signs of Life

The telltale signs of a bed bug problem will be small black, or even red spots on the headboard, sheets, along the seam of a mattress or boxspring.  Multiple red, itchy welts on the skin, sometimes several bites in a short line indicating disturbance during feeding.

You Will Really Need Help With This One

This is one situation in which you really will need the help of a pest management professional for proper identification and complete inspection!  Unfortunately a treatment for bed bugs is NEVER just a spray application.  If you have someone attempt to tell you otherwise, then you likely won’t eradicate the problem.  Proper treatment involves extensive understanding and knowledge of bed bugs and their habits.  Treatment protocols include steam, vacuuming, heat, insecticide dust and spray….spray treatment being only a portion of an effective job.  Proper treatment also involves the occupant extensively by bagging clothing and articles, de-cluttering areas, high heat in a dryer and many other requirements like specialized bed encasements.

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Is There Really Such a Thing as Pack Rats?

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Oh Rats!

Photo credit Ken Cole, USGS

Also known as a Bushy Tailed Woodrat, they are distinguishable from our standard Norway Rats by their hairy tail, soft fine brown fur and larger ears.  Known commonly as Woodrats, these rats vary in color depending on where they are located and which of the eight species they belong to.  Our Bushy Tailed Woodrats are a little more attractive than a Norway Rat, and can be found most anywhere in North America.  In the Pacific Northwest woodrats feed on green vegetation, twigs and shoots or they can be attracted to human food supplies just like any other rat.  Like a most other rats they are most active at night and their climbing skills are excellent.

Woodrat Nesting

Most build a large stick den on the ground or in the trees and are usually inhabited by one individual rat or a female and her babies.  Breeding usually in the spring they produce one to four babies per litter.  To build a nest, they can cause damage to trees by debarking or stealing twigs and branches.  Loss of trees can occur when debarking is severe.  The majority of coastal wood rats are found in wooded areas, rather than right downtown.

The Unique Woodrat

As the name Packrat implies, these rats have a tendancy to like small shiny objects like jewelry, eating utensils, can tabs, and other shiny objects….they don’t all have to be shiny either.  These rats, like any other, have been known to shred upholstered furniture, even mattresses or anything else they can steal to add to their nest.  Like other rats they also can take up residence in parked cars gnawing through electrical wiring causing extensive repair bills.

Interesting Subject, But The Truth Is

We have pretty occasional instances of these woodrats in our coastal locations.  About six years ago, one of my technicians arrived to the office claiming he had a bushy tailed rat in his truck….I had to see it to believe it.  This rat was located way up the Millicoma River past Allegany.  At that time I had been in pest control on the coast for more than 15 years, and this was the first one positively identified.  I had heard of evidence of these rodents in the area for years, but had never had proof of them until then.   Some have been up in the Powers area for years as well as many other areas I’m sure.  I used to hear about them as a child, so I’m sure they have been around here…..we just didn’t really think too much about it.  In the past several years there have been more incidence of these rodents closer and closer to the coast.  Recently they now are being  located in Coquille and a smattering of them in wooded areas around East Bay Drive in North Bend, some have been noticed up the Rogue River out of Gold Beach.  There are more out there, but human interaction with them is still pretty minimal.  But still, compared to the Norway rat, these Woodrats are not nearly as prevalent.  They are fairly easy to trap and will readily approach a baited trap, unlike the Norway rat.   Poison baits must be secured as these rodents will certainly pack the bait off. Unless you have a way to secure bait well, don’t, you will run the risk of other animals getting the bait and dying.

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Norway Rat or Roof Rat

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Oh Rats!

The Oregon Coast has both, we will discuss the differences between the two here.  Both of these rats look pretty similar and the best article I can find referencing both these rats is from University of California, in fact, this excellent article covers the differences, their habitat, has pictures, illustrations, biology, life cycles, damage and management and I really cannot add much of importance here.  So, that said….here is the link,

 http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74106.html

Identifiable Differences Between These Rats

The main differences between these two rats, and most notable differences are that Norway rats are brown, larger or heftier weighing 7 to 18 ounces, while Roof rats are very dark, even black, their build being more slender and only 5 to 10 ounces.  The differences in their ears are also significant with the Norway rat having very small ears, the Roof rat having large enough ears to reach the eyes when folded down.  Other differences include location….as you have heard, location, location, location!  The Roof rat primarily lives in nests above ground in shrubs, trees and attics or ceiling areas, while the Norway rat burrows to nest along foundations, wood piles, under shrubs or in other hidden ground areas inhabiting lower levels and the subareas of structures.  That said, we have found plenty of Norway rats in walls, ceilings and other areas supposedly limited to Roof rats.  I’m sure that they, as well as many pests are opportunists and will go where they can seek out food, water and new nest sites.

Rodent Exclusion or Rodent Control

While most of us prefer to exclude rats from our homes, in some cases that simply cannot be done due to construction practices.  Newer homes have a foundation, with screened foundation vents, screened attic vents and sealed areas where plumbing and wiring enter the home. These homes are less likely to have a rodent problem unless homeowner maintenance has not addressed damage.   Older homes are likely to have post and pier construction and have a skirted area around the crawl space.  This type of construction allows for rodent access all the way around the structure, especially in the case of burrowing rats.  Once rats gain access to underneath a home, they usually have unlimited access to walls, floors, between floors, under bathtubs, under sinks….a myriad of new places to explore and nest. In those cases, exclusion should be attempted by sealing areas around plumbing and wiring, back-filling with jagged or 3/4 minus rock both inside the skirted area and outside the skirted area.  Controlling rodent attractants is also key to keeping a rodent population under control, click here: Control Your Environment, Control Rodent Activity  and Things That Go Bump In The Night

Controlling populations will sometimes be the only method that can be utilized due to open crawl access and poor construction practices.  In these situations secure, effective baiting can be done.  Pest control companies utilize many types of stations, one being a secure bait station.  Bait stations normally have a wired in area for bait to be placed or bait is threaded on a stainless steel bar in the back of the station, then closed with a key preventing access by pets or humans.  These stations are also secured to a concrete paver so that they are not easily moved by children or pets.  These stations are considered to be tamper-proof, even bear proof, as folks in Florence know.  There happens to be a resident bear in one area of Florence that routinely picks up bait stations in the way and tries to shake the bait out…..so sorry, Mr. Bear, that station is…..tamper-proof!   Check our article on (click to go there) Rodent Elimination Methods

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Control Your Environment, Control Rodent Activity

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Oh Rats!

 Vegetation Control

To keep rodents from harboring in vegetation near the structure, make sure you keep all shrubbery and vegetation trimmed about two feet away from the structure and trimmed up off of the ground.  Ground shrubs like juniper are great for harboring food and nest sites for rodents.  Also keep all weedy areas to a minimum.  Trim any high grass, bushes or tree limbs away from the structure entirely.  Berry bushes will provide both food and shelter, keep these trimmed and areas underneath clean.    When no clear space exists between garden plants, trimming should be considered to minimize the possibility of rodent harborage.  Also routinely remove any wet debris such as fallen leaves or moss. Refrain from leaving ripe fruit, vegetables or fallen nuts under trees or in the garden.  A readily available food source will encourage rodent activity. Make sure to remove any trees or branches that overhang your roof, these areas can become rodent freeways!

Unwitting Food Supplies

*Food items should be stored inside refrigerators or containers with tight fitting lids.

*If you compost, make sure that your compost area is as far form the structure as possible.  Either refrain from placing food products in your compost, or make sure that they are well buried if you intend to use this method.

*Pet feces provide a food source for rodents.  We recommend that you pick up pet feces on a regular basis and do not allow it to accumulate in the yard.

*Dog bones in the yard?  Remove those too!

*Garbage should never be stored in boxes or bags.  Garbage cans should be in good condition, without holes, and lids should be tight fitting.  Galvanized garbage cans are the preferred choice.  Make sure that your recycle bins/storage is kept clean of food particles.

*Bird feeders provide a huge attraction for rodent populations.  Please keep feeders away from the structures on your property.  If removing them entirely is not an option for you, keep them clean and do not allow birdseed or squirrel feed to accumulate under the feeder.  Utilize rodent proof options for bird feeders to keep rodents from coming up or down to the feeders.  Store excess feed in sealed metal containers, never plastic.

*Pet food and water should never be left out overnight, inside or outside.  Store pet food in containers with tight fitting lids, preferably in metal garbage can style containers.

Eliminate Possible Exterior Nesting Sites

Stacked or stored lumber or woody debris should be kept away from the structure. Store lumber or firewood on rack at least one foot off the ground and a minimum of two feet away from any structure.  Tarping is generally necessary in our climate to keep wood dry, but also allows rodent nesting to go un-noticed. Keep watch or place a trap in an out of the way location under that tarp, so that no other animals can reach the area, except rats.  Forested, brushy areas should be thinned to eliminate nesting sites.

Give Rats An Open Door and They Will Enter

An open door just increases the possibility of rodent entry.  All doors, including garage doors, should be kept closed when not in use.  Check all weather stripping, especially the bottom of exterior doors to make sure it is in serviceable condition.  Make sure the garage door seal is tight and without gaps, replace when needed.  Don’t leave windows open without a secure screen.  Foundation vents, soffit vents, attic vents and roof vents should all have hardware cloth (heavier than regular screen) in good repair, check these areas annually for holes.  If you have a Chimney or bathroom vent, make sure these areas are properly capped.  Closely inspect areas for gaps around plumbing pipes, cables and electrical wires where it goes through the siding or flooring.  These holes can allow for access, medium grade steel wool, hardware cloth and/or canned expanding foam that can be trimmed flush can discourage entry.  Rats and mice are invertebrates, meaning that their bones can shift and flatten to fit in much smaller holes you expect.  Rats can squeeze beneath a door with only a 1/2 inch gap!

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Things That Go Bump In The Night

by admin on January 17, 2012

in Oh Rats!

While you lie all cozy in bed, the house quiet…not a creature is stirring, not even a mouse….or ARE they?  What was that rustling sound outside the window?  That shuffling little noise above my head? Are there noises from the attic just after dusk?  Or the bump under your bed?  Do you have an explanation for all those things that go bump in the night?  If you can’t identify the sound as being logical, then you might have a rodent problem!  If you are hearing unidentified problems, make sure you either get someone to go in the attic and underneath your home to see if there IS anything to discover there…besides ghosts!

Rats Contribute to Diseases

Rodents, rats or mice either one, will take up residence in the substructure, the attic and even the walls of your home.  After all, it is warm, normally dry and a food and water source isn’t far away, why shouldn’t they raise their families in your four walls?  This is just wildlife invading your space, right?  Wrong!  These pests can carry disease, rabies, hanta virus, leptospirosis, salmonellosis, plague, asthma, allergies, fleas, and ticks.

Extensive Home Damage

These creatures also have no concern for damaging your home, they will chew readily through PVC pipe for water, chew through electrical lines causing fires, saturate wooden members with feces and urine and rip through insulation to create nesting places.  If that isn’t enough damage, rats have even been known to chew through  sheetrock to gain access to the interior!  If you ignore a rodent problem, your structure could suffer severe damage…check your homeowners insurance to see if you have coverage against pests, it’s very likely you do not.  As a pest control operator I have seen vehicles with hundreds of dollars of damage, including fire, flood damage and urine damaged wood…..and that’s just in the past year!

The EWWWW Of Plumbing

As if it isn’t bad enough that rats can quickly and effectively chew right through PVC pipe creating major leaking, that isn’t the worst of it.  We all know that sewer rats exist, right?  Those are actually Norway rats, and yes, they are in our city systems throughout the country.  There are actually specialized job descriptions that deal with “what’s under the manhole”….ewww!  Do you know that rats can tread water for up to 3 days and can swim underwater and hold their breath for 15 minutes?  These rodents can come up through a sewer system right into the toilet, it isn’t an easy journey though.  Imagine them coming up the pipe to your toilet, you know, the same way your stuff goes out, there is a large S curve to negotiate in the toilet itself, nevermind those slippery pipes along the way!  What the heck would cause them to take the journey? This is normally a problem during heavy rains and flooding of these underground tunnels systems that would cause rats to seek higher ground and a place to go.  So while it doesn’t happen frequently, it does happen.  Houses used to be constructed with a flap that allows “stuff” to go out while cutting off incoming access.  Either those  goodywatchets are no longer in existence or they just don’t install them anymore.  My plumber has never heard of such a thing, but, he is young and I’m, ah, aging!  Regardless, it always seems to be the wife that goes to “ahem”…sit down and sees a rat swimming in the toilet bowl!  Most women and even some men are very adept at slamming the lid DOWN!!!!!  Then what?  Yes, that’s right, when you stop screaming…..call the local pest control company….we can help!

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